My Luv Letter to the Kruger Park (2/3 ACE Edition)

Dear Kruger Park,

It was finally time. After many safaris across different places, I was about to see the Kruger Park for the first time. I was going to stay at the Greater Kruger side at Nhoveni camp. I was actually quite buzzing for the upcoming 6 days.

Day 9: Back to Civilization

After leaving the Okavango Delta bright and early, Ralph and I made a pitstop at the Dusty Donkey Café for some real breakfast and an actually good cup of coffee, my first in a while. Slowly, I felt like myself again. The music was perfect too. When Walking on a Dream by Empire of the Sun came on, I suddenly remembered that song even existed and instantly got chills. It was the perfect anthem for that moment. I really was walking on a dream. I’m in fricking AFRICA!!

As I checked in for my flight and said goodbye to the Delta crew, I put in my AirPods and blasted Walking on a Dream and The Vacationer. Great tunes. Great vibes. Two weeks left until I head home, and honestly, what are two weeks in a lifetime? Just a blip. So I’ve decided: I’m going to enjoy every minute. I’m walking on a dream in Africa… and apparently also on red dust, but whatever, white shoes can be red as well.

After a very short flight (we landed 30 minutes early, miracle?), I was back in JNB. I was picked up by Sheena from ACE again, we did a grocery run, I got an eSIM, and boom I was back online and ready to roll.

Back at the hotel, I took the shower of a lifetime and even did some laundry so I could start fresh. For dinner I had shrimps that could supply a village but it was very tasty and I got chatting with a lovely table of older Australians who (hilariously) thought I was Australian too because of my “accent.” I’ll take that compliment to the bank, thank you. We ended up talking about everything from Dutch politics to ethics to wildlife volunteering. Deep stuff, I know. I finished the night calling some friends from home, and it felt good to laugh with them again.

Day 10: On the Road Again

After not enough sleep, it was time to hit the road to Kruger! The shuttle drive was long, but the scenery? Gorgeous. At times, it didn’t feel like South Africa at all, it felt like Montana, USA. Coincidentally, I’m currently reading a cowboy series, so the crossover was perfect. Universe-approved.

I chatted with a South African guide on the shuttle who reminded me about the wild white lions that technically live in Kruger. Rare as heck, but still. The hope is alive.

I finished another book, blasted Empire of the Sun (new obsession unlocked), and by 13:30, we arrived in Hoedspruit. Bert-Jan picked me up and brought me to Nhoveni where there were actual stone houses with en-suite bathrooms?! After Botswana, I thought that every project would have the same campsite lay-out, but I am pleasantly surprised. I needed to share the room with Kelen, a very sweet Brazilian girl, so I didn’t mind that at all!

The group seemed chill, two other Dutchies, my Brazilian roomie, an American girl, a Swiss woman and a Scottish man, with whom I’ll be going to Phinda next as well. Jacques is the project manager here with his very sweet dog Letta. She is a working dog, but actually she just wants cuddles with her Barney toy.

Just as we were about to head out, the heavens opened up. Classic timing. Once the rain stopped, we went for a short walk, learned about tracking, and saw a few elephants. The research method here is a bit different than last week, but I can roll with it. Apparently, we’ll also be doing more hands-on work like clearing roads and maintaining the reserve. There’s even talk of sleeping outside Sunday night with no tents… I said yes, obviously, because I didn’t want to be that person. But luckily I will be going to JNB that next day, so should be easy peasy, right?

Day 11: Tracking and Trackers

Another early morning—up at 5:30, out by 6:30. We tracked rhinos on foot after yesterday’s rain. After about an hour and a half, we saw them! But they saw us too and bolted. Shy little rhinos.

Lunch was not bolognese or beans (finally), and after some chill time, we helped with maintenance work on a new water pipe. The goal? Lay down rocks to keep elephants away. Naturally, the two Dutch guys carried the heavy stones, and I helped the others to arrange them nicely. All was going well until I dropped a stone on my fingers, right after thinking how nice my nails looked again. Karma works fast.

The night was relaxed, and I was in bed early, ready for round three.

Day 12: Rocks, Dogs & Sunsets

I swapped my massive “telescope” lens for my medium one today, thinking we’d be walking a lot again. Big mistake. Huge. Today’s drive was mostly short walks… and guess what? We saw a big elephant herd, four wild dogs, and a white rhino. All just slightly too far for my medium lens. Naturally. Still, seeing them with my own two eyes was beautiful and it was seared into my memory forever.

During lunch, we washed the cars and collected firewood, then went on another drive in the afternoon. This time, the telescope lens was back, and of course, we didn’t see much. But the car was full of laughter: favorite snack debates, rock-throwing tutorials from Jacques (seriously, what can’t he do?), and chasing the sunset for the perfect group photo.

Dinner was amazing again! Jacques made us butter chicken, he is quite the bush chef here.

Day 13: Inappropriate Jokes on Family-Friendly Videos

Today we visited actual Kruger Park. We’re based in the Greater Kruger reserves—private reserves that joined Kruger later, so this was exciting as the scenery and grounds would like different than what we see normally.

We left at 5 a.m., and by the time we arrived, everything was covered in dust due to the bumpy roads. I’m talking glasses, bags, cameras, ears… even my soul felt dusty.

Once inside, we had a wild dog sighting early on (thanks to other cars). They were all snuggled up and adorable, but tricky to photograph. After that, we saw the usual suspects: impalas, elephants, zebras, birds. Nothing groundbreaking, but we had a blast thanks to Bert-Jan’s incredible commentary.

Zebras were strutting to “I’m Too Sexy”, elephants were giving each other mental high-fives, and the ongoing joke of BJ’s seven girlfriends had us all cackling. I also learned I have a super nose, I could smell the wild dogs (they roll in dung to avoid predators), and I nearly passed out near a giraffe carcass. Note to self: I am not immune to smells.

We got some souvenirs, grabbed a hamburger, and made a run for the park gates. On the way back, we spotted bee-eaters and a kingfisher absolutely beating the crap out of a fish almost twice its size.

We ended the day with a coffee at Mugg & Bean, which, to my surprise, had transformed into a local youth hangout. Who knew Hoedspruit had such nightlife?

Day 14: Sleeping Bags & Starry Skies

This was the night I’d been low-key dreading: sleeping outside under the stars. No tents, no mattresses, just a sleeping bag and the Milky Way. After last week in the Delta, I was slightly traumatized, but the group reassured me nothing sketchy really happens, especially if you sleep in the middle of the pack. Safety in numbers, right?

The day was chill, I packed up since we’re leaving tomorrow, and the drive to the campsite gifted us with a golden hour hyena. Sure, they’re in the “Ugly Five,” but the lighting made her look almost cute. Am I becoming soft?

We laughed so much that night. I tried my hand at astrophotography again, and it worked perfectly! The group photo by the fire and under the stars turned out amazing. Even Jacques said, “You’re actually not a bad photographer.” Honestly? That compliment is going on my tombstone.

The evening ended with stories, some funny, some absolutely terrifying (why do people always wait until bedtime to talk about lions?? First Ralph and his maneating Lions and now Jacques with his Letta and the Lions story). I slept okay-ish and took my night shift from 3–4 a.m. Not terrible, especially with some company from Sabine and the men.

Day 15: Morning Shows & Afternoon Scenery

In the morning the Dutchies went for a “refreshing” swim in the not so fresh waterhole next to the campsite, which made for the perfect morning show entertainment for the rest of us. Back at camp, we showered, packed, and took our final group photo. Lee and I are heading to the next project, Phinda, so we grabbed the shuttle to JNB and tomorrow we fly to Durban.

The route back was still beautiful, but it felt different, bittersweet. It’s wild how much people can shape an experience. Last week in Botswana, I couldn’t wait to leave. Here? I couldn’t even think about leaving.

These last five days flew by. At first, I needed to adjust a little when jumping back into group life. I thought I liked being alone, but turns out, I’m a people person through and through. I love laughing, sharing weird stories, and just… being together.

It was funny talking to the Dutchies too, they’re 18 and about to start their bachelor’s. I’m 22, starting a master’s this summer, but it feels like such a different chapter. I am getting closer and closer to real adult life and I’m actually okay with that. Especially seeing the older people in the group still adventuring solo, maybe I’ll be like that too someday. Who knows? Maybe Jacques and Letta haven’t seen the last of me…

Baie dankie, Nhoveni.

To Jacques, Bert-Jan, and the whole team: thank you for this incredible week. It was short, but full of lessons, laughter, and memories. I have so much respect for your conservation work and the knowledge you carry about this land, its animals, and its magic.

Spread the Luv,

Isabella