My Luv Letter to the Netherlands
Dear Netherlands,
Sometimes, it takes a different perspective and a new person to remind us just how wonderful something is. You get so used to living in one place that the magic slowly starts to fade. But then come those special moments when you get to see your own country through the eyes of someone experiencing it for the very first time.
Second-hand wonder, I suppose you could call it.
And last week was one of those weeks.
A very special person travelled all the way up north to visit me in the Netherlands for the first time. Naturally, I had an entire week planned, determined to show as much of my little country as possible.
Of course, not everything went according to plan. Much to my irritation and, admittedly, occasional amusement. But I think we managed to squeeze in just about as much as two
people could reasonably do without turning the entire week into a military operation.
So, consider this little Luv Letter both a love letter to my home country and a one-week itinerary for anyone wanting to discover the Netherlands. I'll take you along to the places we visited, share some recommendations, and throw in a few things I'd love to add next time.
Because, as it turns out, there's still quite a lot of my own country left for me to discover, too.
Day 1: Settling into the Netherlands
Depending on when you land and how long your flight is, you could technically skip this day and jump straight into the itinerary. However, for us, this was very much a settling-in day.
It was his first time flying such a long distance, his first overnight flight, and his first time setting foot outside his own continent. So, you know, quite a few firsts to process before we started to walk, march, galavant, skip, jump, and skate around the country.
After the airport pick-up, we had a quick lunch at home, unpacked a few things, exchanged gifts, and took the dog for a walk while the weather was still behaving itself. Which, if you've ever experienced the Netherlands in late October, you'll know is something worth appreciating.
In the evening, we went out for pizza with my parents, which also gave me the perfect opportunity to introduce him to what I consider the best skyline in the Netherlands (if not the world): Rotterdam.
I might be slightly biased, but Rotterdam really is something special at night. With all the buildings lit up and the lights reflecting off the water, it has a certain magic to it. One of my favourite things about the city is that you can catch glimpses of its skyline from almost every major road leading into it.
Pizza was great, the company was great, and the evening was great. A rather successful first day, I'd say. Especially considering the chaos that was about to follow...
Day 2: A Swan, Amsterdam, ADE, and Much More...
The next morning, we made our way to Amsterdam for a little overnight adventure.
I thought it would be fun to take the train so he could experience the wonderful efficiency of European public transport.
Well. The joke was on me.
Anyone who knows me knows that I have absolutely terrible luck with trains. Delays, cancellations, rerouting, you name it. Somehow, something always happens whenever I need to be somewhere on time. But this? This was a first, even for me.
Almost halfway to Amsterdam, on what should have been a perfectly straightforward 1-hour journey, the train suddenly slowed down and came to a complete stop. A few moments later, the conductor came over the intercom. "Good morning, everyone. We've come to a stop because, as it appears, there's a swan on the tracks. We're just waiting to see if it will move away."
Right. A swan. On the tracks.
Already quite a ridiculous situation, but after another five to ten minutes of standing still, the intercom crackled again. "Ladies and gentlemen, it appears the swan doesn't want to leave the tracks, so we're going to try and catch it." And I kid you not, at that exact moment, we looked out the window and saw the swan casually waddling past our carriage, with a railway employee chasing after it, armed with nothing but his jacket. Not even two minutes later, the same employee walked back past our window. With an entire swan in his arms.
You genuinely cannot make this stuff up.
We thought that would be the end of it. Swan rescued, train moving, adventure continuing.
But no. When we finally arrived at Schiphol, the conductor announced that we might have to wait a little longer for animal control to collect the swan and check it for injuries. Apparently, the swan had been travelling with us. In the driver's cabin.
Imagine being that conductor, coming home after a long shift, and casually telling your family over dinner that you had to catch a swan and then share your cabin with it. I would have paid good money to hear that story.
Unfortunately, by this point, my amusement had started to wear off. The train still wasn't moving, and after another twenty minutes or so, we decided to abandon our feathered travel companion and catch another train. What should have been roughly an hour from Rotterdam to the Rijksmuseum had now turned into a journey of more than two hours.
If you know me well, you can probably imagine the smoke coming out of my ears. But better late than never. Amsterdam, here we come!
A Little Art at the Rijksmuseum
Our first stop was the Rijksmuseum, one of my favourite museums in the Netherlands and home to some of the country's most famous masterpieces. Think Rembrandt's The Night Watch, Vermeer's The Milkmaid, and, rather fittingly after our morning adventure, Jan Asselijn's The Threatened Swan. Yes, the swan had officially become our symbol for the week.
I really do love art, but I must admit that sometimes I struggle to understand why certain objects or paintings are considered so extraordinary. So it was rather refreshing to wander through the galleries making little comments about funny poses, questionable artistic choices, and trying to decipher what made certain pieces so special. A little appreciation mixed with a little cheekiness. My favourite way to visit a museum.
We spent about two hours wandering through the galleries before it was time for our next activity. Although, naturally, the day wasn't quite done testing my patience. We had to wait AGAIN for what felt like an eternity to collect our jackets and bags from the cloakroom. And by this point, I was getting rather hangry. Not ideal.
The Threatened Swan Self Portrait of Van Gogh Such a dreamy painting
The Heineken Experience
Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time to grab a sandwich because we were already due at our next stop: the Heineken Experience. Thankfully, my hangriness started disappearing almost immediately.
The tour was genuinely so much more fun than I expected. Between the light shows, entertaining and informative presentations, interactive games, and the three beers practically pushed into our hands, it was quite the experience.
What a way to kick off the vrijdagmiddagborrel! For those unfamiliar with this very Dutch tradition, it basically means Friday afternoon drinks. A rather important cultural institution, if you ask me.
After the tour, we made our way up to the rooftop bar for another little beer, this time with some special foam, while a DJ was already playing. I suspect this had something to do with Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE), but whatever the reason, the atmosphere was fantastic.
The funny thing is that I'm not much of a beer drinker, and my travel companion wasn't exactly a Heineken enthusiast either. Yet somehow, we both came out thoroughly impressed. So yes, I would absolutely recommend visiting at least once, even if beer isn't usually your drink of choice.
The Original Copper Barrels at Heineken All the Heineken Logos How Beer is made
Afterwards, we quickly checked into our hotel, freshened up after getting caught in the rain, and headed back out to keep the buzzzz going. We met up with my friends for dinner, and the rest of the evening was wonderfully cosy, filled with good food, laughter, and catching up.
I'd completely forgotten that it was ADE weekend, so naturally, we hadn't booked any tickets. We kept the option open to go out dancing afterwards, but after such a strange, funny, and exhausting day, neither of us had much energy left. So, unfortunately, no ADE party for us this time. But considering we'd already had a swan rescue, a museum visit, a brewery tour, and an evening with friends, I'd say we'd done rather well.
Day 3: All the Amsterdam Clichés
The next morning, we headed out for breakfast. And because we both love eggs, I thought I had found the perfect place: Oeuf. A restaurant dedicated to eggs. What could possibly go wrong? Well, the food was great. The atmosphere, however...
Apparently, Oeuf is rather popular with tourists, particularly Americans. And because the restaurant is quite small, we were treated to the full, unfiltered conversations of our neighbouring tables. On one side, four American girls enthusiastically recounting their wild night out during ADE. On the other, two Americans loudly planning their entire day in Amsterdam. We could barely hear ourselves think. By the time we'd finished eating, I think we were both ready to sprint outside just to enjoy a few moments of silence and get the ringing out of our ears. But a noisy breakfast wasn't going to ruin the day.
We wandered around Amsterdam Oud-Zuid for a little while before heading towards our next very cliché, but absolutely essential, activity.
A Canal Cruise Through Amsterdam
You can't visit Amsterdam for the first time without seeing its famous canals from the water. Well, you can, obviously. But I think you'd be missing out.
Rather fittingly, considering our activities the day before, we ended up on the Heineken boat for our canal cruise. Apparently, Heineken was determined to sponsor our entire Amsterdam experience.
There was only one other couple on board, a mother and daughter, which made the whole experience feel wonderfully intimate. And we were incredibly lucky with the weather. Just before we stepped onto the boat, the sun finally peeked through the clouds.
There's something so lovely about seeing Amsterdam from the water. The narrow canal houses, the little bridges, the reflections, and the boats passing by. It's a completely different perspective from wandering through the streets.
Our guide shared plenty of interesting stories about the city, although I must admit that most of the information had already been enthusiastically shared with me beforehand. So, unfortunately, I didn't learn much new. But I still enjoyed every minute of it.
Ice Skating... or Water Skating?
After our canal cruise, I had another brilliant idea. On that exact day, the ice rink in front of the Rijksmuseum was opening for the season. Talk about perfect timing! Of course, we had to go. There was just one tiny problem. It was still a little too warm for ice skate. The rink was practically more water than ice. But did that stop us? Absolutely not.
We strapped on our skates and made our way onto the ice, where some rather questionable skating techniques were quickly introduced. I don't think I stopped laughing for the entire hour. And let's just say that someone was trying very hard to channel the gracefulness of a
swan. Yes, another swan reference. Apparently, the theme of the week was still going strong.
After about an hour of skating, laughing, and attempting to remain upright, we rewarded ourselves with a quick lunch and some glühwein before heading back to Rotterdam. Thankfully, the train journey home went smoothly. No swans. No delays. No unexpected animal passengers. A miracle, really.
In the evening, we played Hitster with my parents, and my goodness, my teammate turned out to be waaaaay better than I expected. Very convenient for any future game nights, hehe.
Day 4: Slowing Down in a Cabin in the Woods
After the busyness of Amsterdam, it was time to slow things down a little.
But first, breakfast. We started the morning at Petite Louise in Rotterdam, one of my absolute favourite breakfast spots. And honestly, their pain perdu is to die for. If you ever find yourself in Rotterdam looking for a lovely breakfast, please do yourself a favour and go there.
Afterwards, we headed home, packed our bags, did a quick grocery run, and set off towards the Veluwe. I'd booked us a little cabin in the woods at Marber Veluwe, and it turned out to be exactly what we needed.
After a few days of cities, museums, trains, and endless activities, there was something incredibly peaceful about arriving in the middle of the forest. No rushing from one activity to the next. No crowded streets. No trains with swans. Just the woods, the autumn colours, and a cosy cabin.
We spent the rest of the evening watching our newest obsession, House of the Dragon, and playing a rather fierce game of Scrabble. Which yours truly, of course, won. Hehe.
A Fierce Game of Scrabble Happening Here
Day 5: A "Relaxing" Hike Through the Veluwe
Well, apparently, our slowing-down era didn't last very long. We woke up feeling refreshed and energised and thought: "Why not make the most of the day and explore the Veluwe by walking a 20-kilometre route?"
Yes. Twenty kilometres. For a relaxing day in nature. Brilliant idea.
In all fairness, the hike itself wasn't particularly difficult. The Netherlands is famously flat, after all. But twenty kilometres is still twenty kilometres, and my lower back and feet were definitely starting to question my life choices. Especially because I was breaking in a new pair of hiking boots. Wonderful planning on my part.
But despite the aching feet, it turned out to be one of my favourite days of the entire week.
Autumn in the Veluwe
There's something truly magical about the Veluwe in autumn.
The forest floor is covered in golden and rusty-orange leaves, the trees are turning every shade of yellow, red, and brown, and every now and then, the sunlight manages to break through the branches. It almost feels like walking through a painting.
And naturally, we weren't exactly the fastest hikers. I kept stopping to photograph every interesting-looking fungus I could find. Meanwhile, he was fascinated by all the unfamiliar trees, and we were both constantly pulling out the Merlin Bird ID app to identify the little birds flying around us. A rather perfect combination of hobbies, if you ask me.
We also made a few very necessary stops along the way. One for a proper Dutch kroketten lunch, because hiking twenty kilometres without a decent lunch would simply be irresponsible. And another for a warm Chocomel near the famous Jachthuis Sint Hubertus. Because what better way to enjoy autumn in the Netherlands than with a hot chocolate in the middle of the forest?
Oh, and of course, there were plenty of obligatory selfie stops.
The Classic Veluwe View My Pretty Fungus Muse Not everyone can photograph sharply... Another Fungus Muse The well deserved Warme Chocomel Jachthuis Sint Hubertus Look how cute these all are!! And even tinier ones! Me being happy in a fairytale landscape Its a little family!! Non chalant hiker A not so non-chalant photographer in the wild
The Sound of... Gunfire?
Now, you might imagine that walking through the Veluwe would be a wonderfully peaceful experience. And for the most part, it was. Beautiful scenery, hardly another hiker in sight, birds singing, leaves rustling...
And then:
TRRRRRRRRRR. TRRRRRRR. TRRRRRRR.
Gunfire.
Not even the occasional "boom... boom... boom..." No, no, no. Proper machine-gun-like bursts of noise echoing through the forest. We suspected it was military training taking place somewhere nearby. And honestly, the contrast was so ridiculous that we couldn't stop laughing.
There we were, walking through one of the most beautiful natural areas in the Netherlands, trying to enjoy the serenity of the forest, while the soundtrack made it sound as though we'd accidentally wandered into a war film.
Such a lovely, relaxing hike.
But I suppose that's exactly what makes certain days so memorable. Sometimes, it's the completely unexpected things that turn into the funniest stories.
After twenty kilometres, several hundred photographs (probably), countless bird identifications, and a few questionable noises in the distance, we finally made it back to the cabin.
By that point, I could barely move normally. So the rest of the evening consisted of lying in bed and watching a movie. A very well-deserved ending to our supposedly relaxing day.
Day 6: An Actually Relaxing Day
Unlike the day before, this time I really meant it when I said we were taking things slowly. I woke up with aching muscles in places I didn't even know could ache. Apparently, I'm not quite as used to walking and exercising as I once was. Who would've thought?
So we enjoyed a calm breakfast, packed our things, and made our way back home. The rest of the day was spent doing absolutely nothing productive. And it was wonderful. We continued binge-watching House of the Dragon, relaxed, and naturally had another round of Scrabble.
Someone was rather determined to recover from the previous loss. Unfortunately for him, the comeback wasn't quite successful. I remain the reigning champion. Hehehe.
Day 7: A Classic Old-Dutch Day
After everything we'd already done, I thought it was time for a proper old-fashioned Dutch day: Windmills, bicycles, pancakes, poffertjes, ferries, and water. The whole lot.
Basically, every Dutch stereotype rolled into one day.
We started the morning by borrowing my parents' bicycles and cycling to Kinderdijk. It's only about twenty minutes away from home, and honestly, visiting by bike was such a lovely way to experience it.
For anyone unfamiliar with Kinderdijk, it's one of the most iconic places in the Netherlands, famous for its historic windmills and the beautiful surrounding polder landscape. It's also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which makes it quite a special little corner of the country.
We weren't particularly in the mood for a full guided tour, although I do think it could be very interesting. There are several visitor experiences, including opportunities to explore the windmills and even take a boat tour. But not for us that day. We simply cycled through the area, admired the windmills, and made a little loop before heading back. And the best part? It was free.
We stopped for a "coffee with a view", as they so proudly advertised it. Their words, not mine. Although, to be fair, they weren't wrong.
And because I still wanted to share some interesting history, I quickly ChatGPT'ed a few fun facts about Kinderdijk. Who needs an official tour guide when you've got artificial intelligence and a decent internet connection?
Kinderdijk in Morning Haze Top tier biker
After cycling back home, we swapped our bicycles for the car and headed towards Kralingse Bos. Because there was one very important item left on the Dutch cultural checklist. Pancakes. Not just any pancakes, of course. A proper Dutch spekpannenkoek, with bacon (and cheese). And naturally, a side of poffertjes.
Because honestly, you cannot visit the Netherlands and leave without trying those little fluffy pancakes covered in butter and powdered sugar. That would practically be a crime.
With our Dutch food mission successfully completed, we spent the rest of the day enjoying the beautiful weather. And I really do have to give the Netherlands some credit here. Autumn can be absolutely stunning. The skies were clear, the sunlight was soft, and the trees were glowing in shades of gold, orange, and deep red.
For a country that usually greets you with grey skies and drizzle, it was really showing off. And I wasn't complaining.
Day 8: Saving the Best for Last (aka Rotterdaaaammmm)
Indeed, we saved the best for last. My city. Rotterdam.
And even though I've lived in and around Rotterdam for most of my life, I must admit that when it came to planning a proper sightseeing day, I suddenly realised I wasn't entirely sure what we should do. A little embarrassing, really. Thankfully, Pinterest bloggers came to the rescue.
We started the day with brunch at Jarmusch, one of my favourite spots in Rotterdam. A delicious egg-and-cheese bagel later, we were ready to explore.
We wandered through the city centre, stopping at some of Rotterdam's most recognisable landmarks. First, the Markthal, with its impressive architecture and colourful ceiling. Then the Oude Haven, one of the city's oldest harbour areas, where the historic boats and waterfront cafés give you a completely different impression of Rotterdam. And, of course, the famous Kubuswoningen, or Cube Houses. Because nothing says Rotterdam quite like a collection of bright yellow houses tilted at rather questionable angles.
I genuinely love how different Rotterdam is from most other Dutch cities. While Amsterdam, Utrecht, and Delft are known for their historic canal houses, Rotterdam has this fascinating mix of modern architecture, industrial history, and bold design. It's a city that isn't afraid to look different. And that's exactly what I love about it.
Our next stop was the Nederlands Fotomuseum, somewhere I'd actually never visited before. Which is rather ridiculous, considering how much I love photography. Although the exhibitions weren't entirely to my taste, I still found it fascinating to see how different photographers approach their work and turn a collection of images into a complete story or exhibition.
Photography is such a personal art form, and I always enjoy discovering how differently people see the world through their lenses. But I must admit, my favourite part of the visit wasn't actually an exhibition. It was the vintage photo booth. And when I say vintage, I mean properly vintage. The kind where you have to wait more than five minutes for your photos to develop, and when they finally come out, they're still slightly wet from the ink and chemicals.
Absolutely loved it. Such a vibe. I've always had a little obsession with photo booths and have collected plenty of strips with friends and family over the years. So naturally, I was very happy to add another one to the collection. Hopefully, the first of many more.
Afterwards, we made our way towards Het Park, near the Euromast. This is one of my favourite parts of Rotterdam, particularly because of the surrounding Scheepvaartkwartier, with its beautiful historic buildings and elegant streets. We wandered through the park for a while, enjoying yet another gorgeous autumn afternoon. The trees were glowing in the afternoon sunlight, leaves were scattered across the paths, and everything felt wonderfully peaceful. We eventually stopped for a late lunch at Dudok in het Park, which was the perfect little break before continuing our day.
And to finish off the week properly, we went out for dinner at Bar Bú. Oh. My. Days. I really need to start going there more often again because the food was SO good.
We had such a lovely evening, looking back on everything we'd done over the past week, laughing about our little adventures, and already dreaming up new places to visit.
A rather perfect way to finish our Dutch adventure.
Such Cool Old School Analog Photos Bar Bú Fooooooddd
A Little More Luv for My Own Country
The next morning, it was time to say goodbye again, and just like that, our magical week in the Netherlands had come to an end.
As I mentioned at the beginning of this letter, sometimes it takes another pair of eyes to remind you of the beauty in something that has become so ordinary to you. And I think that's exactly what happened to me.
I've spent so much of my life dreaming about other countries, exploring new places, and imagining where in the world I might eventually settle down that I sometimes forget how much there is to appreciate right here at home. No, the Netherlands still isn't necessarily the country where I imagine spending the rest of my life. But that doesn't mean I can't love it for what it is. And especially during autumn, when the forests turn golden, the mornings are crisp, and the cities feel a little cosier, it really does have a certain magic. This week reminded me of that.
Of course, there were still so many places I would have loved to visit. I would have loved to spend a day in The Hague and Scheveningen, wandering through the city before heading towards the beach. I would have loved to visit the Wadden Islands, with their beautiful landscapes, wildlife, and endless stretches of coastline. And I would have loved to show more of the southern Netherlands, particularly Maastricht, which feels almost like stepping into a different country altogether. Not to mention places like Volendam, Giethoorn, Delft, and all those charming little towns that make the Netherlands so wonderfully Dutch.
But I suppose that's the beauty of travelling. You can never see everything in one go. And that just gives you another reason to come back.
So, if you're reading this and thinking about visiting the Netherlands, I hope this little itinerary gives you some inspiration. Whether you have a week or a little longer, there's so much more to discover beyond the usual Amsterdam highlights. Explore the cities, wander through the forests, cycle past the windmills, eat far too many poffertjes, and, if you're lucky, perhaps even encounter a swan on your train. Although I wouldn't necessarily recommend that last one.
As for me, I'm already dreaming about our next adventure, whenever and wherever that might be. There are still so many corners of my own country I'd love to share, and so many more places across Europe waiting to be explored.
After all, there's always more to see, more stories to collect, and more reasons to fall in Luv with the world.
With much Luv,
Isabella
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